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30,000 Mile Service

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    • Sep 27, 2008 1:10:58 pm
    i do all my own service and never take my car to the dealer for maintinance, but for the 30,000 service, do i need to take it in or do i just have to do a standard oil change and inspect tires/brakes and stuff???? ive allready changed the gear oil at 25,000 miles...
    • Sep 27, 2008 1:26:58 pm
    I was just thinking about this since I recently passed 20,000 miles, so I decided to go look at my scheduled maintenance book. Needless to say, this book just pissed me off. That book is not very helpful. It tells me to rotate my tires and change my oil, big friggin deal. Then it gives me a very small list of things to check for. OK, fine and all, but there is nothing in there saying anything about gear oil or any of that crap. There has to be a better reference on what we need to be looking for as we put the miles on the tC.
    • Sep 27, 2008 1:43:44 pm
    i have 50k miles and havent gone to the dealership for 1 checkup.. im to superstitious there gonna fuck with my car lol.
    • Sep 27, 2008 2:13:39 pm
    ^^^and they just might. if u seen the videos of my car that Orin edited for me
    • Sep 28, 2008 8:48:17 am
    Basic maintenance depends on the type of driving you do and your current maintenance plan you follow.

    What I would suggest checking at 30K would be:

    -all ball joints and tie rod ends for boot wear
    -tire wear
    -brake pad/rotor wear
    -washer fluid level
    -power steering fluid level
    -brake fluid level (low may indicate pad wear so inspect pads first before adding fluid)
    -coolant level/color (color should still be pretty pink or OEM color)
    -all lights (inside/outside)
    -CV joints (if you live in areas where a lot of turning is performed, CV joints/boots are worn out quickly. Inspect the boots to make sure there are no splits/cracks in them. If there is, no matter how small, replace the boot to prevent damage to the joint)
    -check battery (take to autozone and have load test performed)

    Things to change/replace:

    -air filter
    -oil and filter
    -transmission fluid (if manual, a 30K recommended interval is what I would stick with to make sure the trans fluid is ALWAYS fresh)
    -cabin air filter (if equipped with one)
    -rotate tires (usually a 10K mile interval is the "norm")
    -flush/bleed and fill brake fluid (if it's been 2 years since you've done this or have NEVER done this, this will help rid brake hydraulic system of any bad fluid and/or water in system)
    -cooling system flush (although manufacturer states fluid is good for 150K miles/5 years, doing EARLY intervals is not going to hurt the system. Perform a flush and fill every 2 years or 25/30K miles to keep scale and calcium/magnesium deposits low)

    As of right now, that's really all I would do since the car is still pretty new. These are the basic steps we took when checking the BMWs/Audis at the shop so for the most part, these steps are universal for all vehicles.
    • Sep 28, 2008 9:23:54 am
    for the coolant system flush, would u take it to the dealer or any shop will do? and is the brake fluid flush costly?
    • Sep 28, 2008 9:26:36 am
    Coolant flush you can do on your own, just as you can the brake flush. The brake flush, do perform properly, requires a pressurized tank to force bleed and fill the system via the master cylinder (that's how they do it at the factory). The coolant system can be chemically flushed using a flush additive from a local auto store and following simple add/drain/fill/drain/fill instructions on back of bottle.

    Coolant flush runs about ~100-150$ and brake flush usually around ~75-100$.
    • Sep 28, 2008 9:29:32 am
    web u know im mechanically handicapped lol...ill pay 4 ur plane ticket this time so u can work on my car
    • Sep 28, 2008 9:32:41 am
    hahaha.......If you lived closer, you could roll over b/c it only takes about 1.5-2 hours for all of this to get done properly.
    • Sep 28, 2008 4:08:40 pm
    Decided to go grease all my joints tonight with my needle fitting (since we have sealed boots, there's no grease fitting) and inspected the whole suspension. I found my front outer cv boots a bit rough and beginning to show signs of dry rotting. I may be doing my front axles soon and just getting OEM replacements from Autozone . The stock ones have held up through a lot and I'm not racing my car at all so no point in spending more money than I have to on them. I'll take a look again at the suspension another day this week to figure out what I need to remove on both sides to get the axles out and replace them.

    If I can, I'll get some pics of it all and make a DIY for CV axle replacements on our car
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