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    • Apr 14, 2018 10:50:12 am
    Hello! My name’s Daniel. I’m from Modesto California. I’ve always been about trucks infact I’ve had 5, lifted, wide tires loud exhaust and 10mpg. I never cared I got bad gas mileage because I always thought my trucks looked good. Well now I commute 45 Mins a day 1 way to work my dream job. And getting 10mpg freeway was killing me. So I bought a 2007 Scion tC from my gf. And it gets great great gas mileage. But I know nothing about it. I can work on my f-350 all day long. But I have no idea what I’m doing when it comes to this fwd 4cyl 5 Manuel car. So I’m curious. Is there anything I should be watching for? Also looking for cool ideas on what I can do. Maybe lower it a little bit? Thanks in advance everybody!!
    • Apr 16, 2018 5:35:55 pm
    D_Moebs wrote:
    Hello! My name’s Daniel. I’m from Modesto California. I’ve always been about trucks infact I’ve had 5, lifted, wide tires loud exhaust and 10mpg. I never cared I got bad gas mileage because I always thought my trucks looked good. Well now I commute 45 Mins a day 1 way to work my dream job. And getting 10mpg freeway was killing me. So I bought a 2007 Scion tC from my gf. And it gets great great gas mileage. But I know nothing about it. I can work on my f-350 all day long. But I have no idea what I’m doing when it comes to this fwd 4cyl 5 Manuel car. So I’m curious. Is there anything I should be watching for? Also looking for cool ideas on what I can do. Maybe lower it a little bit? Thanks in advance everybody!!


    hey daniel, welcome to CSTC (club scion tc)!

    working on the tC is slightly different than an f-350, but an engine is an engine. Just some have some different design issues.

    First yours is an 07, so you're right in the range of years that had the earlier model water pump from Toyota. Toyota had an issue with the bearing seal going bad and that would then cause the water pump to being to fail. Check along the drivebelt area and see what it looks like. If you see a pink-salt ice mixture the weep hole failed. Time to replace the water pump.

    If the water pump fails, the engine overheats (yes I know you know that) but what you might not know is that Toyota didn't sink the cylinder head bolts deep enough into the block. Under normal temps the head will not pull up from the block, but get it warmer than normal (water pump failure) and you'll have this. It won't be something you can observe then it's too late. The leak is masked by the intake manifold.

    Other things to know about is just normal maintenance wear/tear.

    If it's an automatic make sure you do NOT flush the transmission ever! Drain/fill only. It will take about 3-4 drain/fills to replace all the trans fluid.

    Take a look at the lid of the engine air filter. See that black mesh? That was added as a filter to stop gasoline vapors from escaping into the air. Problem is, there is NO ability to replace it since it gets clogged up in time. Then you have an air obstruction and there goes your mpgs/fuel economy! I removed mine with a small flat head screwdriver. It's held in with plastic melted rivets. Once you break it out, clean up with xacto or box cutter blade.

    CRC Brand MAF sensor cleaner on MAF sensor (top of air box lid). Clean once a year, yes it gets dirty, your idle will be affected and your mpgs.

    the 07's were under a service campaign because Toyota used lower tension piston rings. The result? Blowby and oil consumption. Some have done well with increasing the oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30. That's at your judgement.

    Coolant should definitely be the Toyota stuff. It's a Organic Acid Technology with a healthy dose of phosphates. People have removed the Toyota stuff at 120k miles and everything inside is completely clean! Worth it when it's not much more expensive than stuff at autozone. Again no flushes, just drain and fill, there is a nipple on right side of radiator mount with petcock that you can use to bleed air (put clear hose on nipple) out when filling up coolant.

    Spark plugs are NGK 4589 part, called Laser Iridium. Trust me, the engine likes this the best. About $7-8 a plug at NAPA. NGK has a problem with counterfeits so beware of ebay having a GOOD PRICE.

    brake fluid, every 3 years. Use the Toyota fluid it has additives in it, the aftermarket doesn't. Toyota recalled master cylinders because the seals failed because those additives weren't in there. Same price for DOT3 fluid at a Toyota dealer as aftermarket so it's not like it's more expensive.

    Brakes.. use Toyota rubber grease to lube up the caliper sliding pins every year. The toyota great is a lithium soap base glycol grease and no one but Toyota has it. It's the only thing that Toyota recommends because it's compatible with the rubber seals. DO NOT USE SILICONE! That will cause it to swell and good luck stopping..

    Toyota part number 08887-01206 about $13 a tube, last a long time.

    Alternators last about 100-110k miles. Have seen them dying at that age, will get a bunch of odd lights on the dash when it fails. Same with a bad battery.

    If I can think of anything else I'll tell ya.. hope that helps.
    • Apr 19, 2018 8:22:55 pm
    Wow, haha that’s a lot of great info man! Much appreciated that forsure, if anything else pops in your head let me know. I’m going to clean the MAF sensor and check the water pump this weekend because if does idle rough from time to time and I always wondered why it used a bit of oil. I’ll deffinatly switch to 5w-30. Thanks again!!
    • Apr 20, 2018 9:14:26 am
    hey daniel! ya I know that my 06 tC is a slightly different engine design than the updaed 07 engine changes. But I did have 5w20 oil in mine and it just didn't sound right, I immediately switched back to 5w30 and engine was sounding like it should. I know that's not "scientific" but if an engine starts clacking that's a sign something isn't right. I never looked back to 5w20. The 06 tC was spec'd originally for 5w30 but Toyota came out and said 5w20 could be used, I would never use that again.

    about your rough idle, you could also check the throttle body throat/plate. Don't spray throttle body cleaner down the throat. The intake manifold is a nylon/plastic, and the acetone in throttle cleaner can melt it! Not a good day there! lol!
    So I just spray throttle body cleaner on a cleaning swab and clean it that way. Also don't force the throttle plate open, it's driven by an electric motor. The trick I found is you have someone else turn the car on (not started) and then have them hit the gas to open the plate. Then you can clean both sides and the throat.

    When you're looking from the front of the engine. The throttle body throat, behind the throttle plate, at about the 11am position maybe it's 12, but you'll see a small hole in the side of the throat. That hole is the idle air hole, if that is dirty you can also have a problem with the idle. The throttle body cleaner I used was CRC Brand, I just like them, and they work extremely well.

    Also, the only fuel system cleaner I found that works is BG Products 44k fuel cleaner. bgprod.com is their website, can use it to find a place around you that sells it. I think amazon sells it too. I use that in a tank that's about 1/4 full, dump this in, fill up (mixes the 44k into the gas), run that through, then I usually change the oil after a tank or two of that getting out of there. I use it about every 20k miles. About $20-25 a can. Worth it.

    Another issue I remembered was the gas cap. If the cap isn't making that "wooshing" noise (when it's warm outside, doesnt happen when cold), then the cap seal is failing. Eventually you'll get a CEL (check engine light) because of this evap problem. The trick is not to keep buying Toyota's cap ($25+), it's to buy a Stant brand cap. It doesn't come with the tether to the gas lid door, but it works and works well! I think I paid like $8 at advance auto. I've also heard that NAPA's brand is Stant so that could work too. If you needed one.

    So yup, I did think of something else! yeah this is what kind of knowledge you accumulate after 14 years of knowing this car.
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