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Oil analysis: Excellent Information to read and understand

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    • Edited 1 times, last by Web on .
    Please read this document discussing oil. It's a very long article, but very well worth the time it takes to read it. Do not be thrown off by the fact that they discuss Porsche air-cooled motors a lot because the information provided is both specific to those motors AND general for all other motor types: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#m96

    For those of you that know me and my car on here, you know that I used Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 synthetic for the first 60K, then Castrol Syntec 5W-40 for 10K, then Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 for 10K, and then Royal Purple 5W-30 for the past 54K. I have decided to switch to Mobil 1 0W-40 after 2 weeks of research into ZDDP levels, detergent levels and overall shear and high temperature viscosity characteristics. Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol Syntec 0W-30 are very highly recommended around different technical forums for all of their adherance to the above mentioned specifications. I noticed a slight increase in valve train noise after the swap to the 0W-40 from RP, but after about 100 miles of driving it has subsided.

    I'm going to have a few UOAs performed over the next few months and determine how the chemical properties of the Mobil 1 0W-40 perform inside my motor. If they seem to stabilize overall friction wear, then I'll stick with it. Can't complain about $1.50 cheaper per quart either
    Nice find web I use Mobil in both the BMW and the Scion. I did use Royal Purple in one oil change of the Scion, but for the price you can not beat the Mobil 1. I also goto to Advanced or Autozone they are always having filter and oil sales and I usually get it cheaper that way.

    The BMW uses 7 quarts of oil and well when I was shopping at Wall-Mart I found their everyday price on a one gallon bottle of Mobil 1 is cheaper the buying four individual quarts.
    If you're looking for the better quality Mobil 1, you have to go with the 0W-40 as it is the only grade of Mobil 1 that is group IV. All the rest are based off of group III base stock oils.
    Just got my oil analysis test kit from Blackstone Labs . Going to collect the oil necessary in another few thousand and send it in for analysis. I'll report back with what I receive.
    • Edited 1 times, last by itmovesme on .
    For the past two years; I've been using RP 5-30. Every 3,700; I always put in additional 1 QT. Recently, (past two months) oil light comes on so I put in the additional 1 QT & week passes light comes on again so I put in another QT. There's no leaks anywhere that I'm aware of. Its extreme high mileage lol I was told today by my "Pops" to use High Mileage oil.

    Any thoughts?
    why an additional one quart ? the manual only calls for 4
    Euphorian wrote:
    why an additional one quart ? the manual only calls for 4


    His oil is burning off so it's constantly reading low.

    itmovesme wrote:
    For the past two years; I've been using RP 5-30. Every 3,700; I always put in additional 1 QT. Recently, (past two months) oil light comes on so I put in the additional 1 QT & week passes light comes on again so I put in another QT. There's no leaks anywhere that I'm aware of. Its extreme high mileage lol I was told today by my "Pops" to use High Mileage oil.

    Any thoughts?


    How many miles do you have? I did 5K mile intervals for 60K with RP 5W-30 and was only 3/4 quarts low at the end of each interval (normal for the mileage...I have 134k now). Most likely, if you're not seeing the leak anywhere and it's no where on the block, it's getting burnt off through blowby at the piston rings. You can periodically check your plugs to check for carbon deposits or fouling.

    If you're adding 2 quarts to each oil change interval (what it sounds like), you definitely have an internal blowby leak. You can switch to a thick oil, if your climate is safe to do so (do not switch to a 10W-40 if you're in Maine and it's winter time....). The normal safe procedure if this is occurring would be to switch to a conventional oil and run either the same or a slightly heavier weight. You're running 5W-30 now, so try a 5W-30 quality conventional (Valvoline is my preference to switch to if needed) or try a 5W-40 if you can find a brand with it. It's a harder weight to find though, so don't feel bad if you can't.

    I noticed this type of burn off with all 5 oils I've used (Amsoil Series, Castrol Syntec, Mobil 1 Ext Perf, RP and Mobil 1), but the least burnt off was Amsoil. I'm going back to that after this oil change due to a friend of the family becoming a dealer and I get a discount . For your case, I would try 2-3 intervals using a conventional grade oil and checking the oil levels every 2 weeks during the intervals. If you notice the oil level stabilizing, then stick to the conventional.
    Web wrote:
    Euphorian wrote:
    why an additional one quart ? the manual only calls for 4


    His oil is burning off so it's constantly reading low.




    ohh ive always known oil to burn off quicker if you add more than 4qts
    It all depends on the condition of your engine. That would suck for cars that require 6+ quarts and diesels where 10+ quarts are needed!
    ok so if you car is older and is leaking or burning oil
    would you say its safe to go over 4qts ?
    or just fill to 4qts every time ?
    • Edited 1 times, last by Web on .
    To maintain balanced pressure, you want to stick to the OEM recommended oil. Too much oil can cause other issues as it could be forced or leaked through other gaskets in the block. You could have camshaft seal issue, intake manifold issue...etc.

    4.2 is our recommended fill.
    Yea thats what Ive always thought just checkin
    • Edited 2 times, last by itmovesme on .
    No no....I do the 4 QTs at every oil change. When oil light comes on, then I put in additional 1 QT thats when its been driven to 4,200-ish mark on current oil change. I used to change it out completely when oil light came on but decided that was way too early to change it. When it comes on: I'm either taking quick turn or slammed on the brakes: its not staying on 24/7. Putting that 1 QT; makes it not turn on. Which that 4.2 QTs comes into play. Being pushing 200 mark within next month.

    Now why am I putting in 2 QTs? I put that 1 QT in @ 4,000 mark then week pass; that lovely oil light comes on & turns off again.

    Oil was always like that when I was getting warranty service. That's why I know I'm too also burn alot of oil.
    That's excessive to burn off that much in a 5K interval. Also, if your oil light is coming on and adding that much over a 5K interval, you are getting some bad blow by at the rings or a dripping leak off the block somewhere.

    What type of oil are you using? Brand, weight, syn/non...etc
    I noticed when i get my oil done, That they Add 3 quarts and keep 2 of the old quarts of oil in the car. . .

    I have oil now and want to change it myself on the 5k turn... BUT what i want to know i what damage has been done so far because of there cheap selves?
    ^You'll have to tear the motor apart and see.....can't say if anything is actually wrong just from that information.

    Most likely, your motor is fine and will benefit from you doing your own oil change and being able to get out most of the 4.2 quarts at each service. Just pick a quality oil and filter and stick to a set interval....you'll be fine.
    Web wrote:
    That's excessive to burn off that much in a 5K interval. Also, if your oil light is coming on and adding that much over a 5K interval, you are getting some bad blow by at the rings or a dripping leak off the block somewhere.

    What type of oil are you using? Brand, weight, syn/non...etc


    Royal Purple 5-30 & I never change it after 5k mark only around 4,500-4,800. Well, I keep you in mind when the oil light turns on with the current change. Write down the mileage.
    How Is Castrol GTX SAE 5W-30

    I have a 5 Quart jug i got for free, was going to use it.
    xGhostx wrote:
    How Is Castrol GTX SAE 5W-30

    I have a 5 Quart jug i got for free, was going to use it.


    It's not syn, so you're looking at a group III oil with no group IV or above additives. Conventional oil will breakdown easier than a GOOD synthetic (more group IV additives or no group III base stock), so it's up to you to use.
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