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Pass Side engine mount HOW TO?

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    • Mar 12, 2015 1:16:42 pm
    Hey guys, I have seen DIY's for 3 of the 4 engine mounts. I have done the front one and trans side myself. They were pretty easy. I didn't feel I had the tools or time needed so I paid someone to do the rear lower mount. Man do I hate paying for labor!!!

    Anyway, I have the last mount but I am wondering if anyone has done this one before. I would like to know if there are any tips or tricks to make it easier. To make sure there is ZERO confusion... this is the one on the passenger side mounted to the timing cover and inner fender.

    It looks pretty straight forward,but I think there is a nut under it that I have no idea how to get access to.

    Thanks
    • Mar 17, 2015 1:18:26 pm
    No longer need this.

    I got it done without any help. I would have made a DIY but, sometimes when I feel like nobody is trying to help me out.....why help others?

    My suggestion for a DIY is

    Drive
    It
    Yourself

    To a mechanic and pay them.

    Otherwise...

    There is one 14mm nut under the mount you need to get under the car to reach.
    There is one 14mm nut and one 14mm bolt on top that hold the bracket to the engine.
    There are 3 14mm bolts that hold the mount to the frame.
    There is one 17mm bolt that holds the bracket to the mount.
    There is a hose bracket that is bolted to the mount with a 10mm bolt that is way too long and a major PITA.
    Fight with it all and curse at each bolt as you remove them. Flip everything upside down, sideways and whatever else you can think it you fish it out. Then attempt to do it in reverse.

    Good luck.

    I know my instructions suck but it's more than I had to work with.
    • Mar 17, 2015 6:11:45 pm
    Awesome write up i vote sticky.
    • Mar 18, 2015 5:56:40 am
    Now if only we could get them to search for this info in the future.
    • Mar 28, 2015 10:19:54 pm
    basebllstar wrote:
    Now if only we could get them to search for this info in the future.


    I searched everywhere. All I could find was a DIY on poly from front and rear. I normally would search here and if it's not here....I would make a good DIY but I was in a situation where I had to just get it done....and it was such a PITA that I was barely taking time to think....much less write stuff down and/or take pics. If I get some time....I may still be able to make it better by at least getting pics of the bolts and such. Don't hold your breath though.... LOL
    • Mar 29, 2015 5:58:23 pm
    The one by the power steering pump? SOunds like a PITA. It looks like it would be easy given its location. That sucks.
    • Apr 01, 2015 11:11:07 am
    mischman wrote:
    The one by the power steering pump? SOunds like a PITA. It looks like it would be easy given its location. That sucks.


    If the car didn't have power steering or AC it would be about a 15 minute job. That's the sad part. Both of those lines are in the way...AND...bracketed to the mount. If not for those headaches, you would simply support the engine, remove bolts and lift. BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, we can't have it that easy. LOL

    Anyway, it is Hydraulic and I suggest that anyone having vibes,squeaks and rattles while under load(especailly automatic) this is a likely culprit.
    • Jan 16, 2017 10:42:16 pm
    • Edited 2 times, last by H2k on Jan 16, 2017 10:44:08pm.
    ImmortaltC wrote:
    mischman wrote:
    The one by the power steering pump? SOunds like a PITA. It looks like it would be easy given its location. That sucks.


    If the car didn't have power steering or AC it would be about a 15 minute job. That's the sad part. Both of those lines are in the way...AND...bracketed to the mount. If not for those headaches, you would simply support the engine, remove bolts and lift. BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, we can't have it that easy. LOL

    Anyway, it is Hydraulic and I suggest that anyone having vibes,squeaks and rattles while under load(especailly automatic) this is a likely culprit.


    I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to tackle this myself and hoping maybe someone that had done this can also chime in.

    I'm able to get all 7 of the bolts off, but I can't seem to get enough clearance to the power steering and A/C lines to get the top (silver) part of the mount out. I've tried lowering the engine as low my jack can go and still can't get enough clearance.

    Does the power steering and A/C lines get a lot looser when the bracket with the 10mm bolt is off? It seems like it would be easier to remove that bolt once the top part of the mount is off as it's a huge PITA to get to at the moment.
    • Feb 04, 2017 9:36:06 pm
    • Edited 1 times, last by H2k on Feb 04, 2017 9:43:11pm.
    I was able to finally replace the mount. A couple of tips (along with the ones provided from ImmortaltC) for anyone looking to replace this mount:

    Use a wobble extension set. The extra angles will give you better access to all of the bolts.

    I've had to lower the engine all the way, to the point where the jack was no longer supporting the engine in order to get enough clearance.

    Remove the top (silver) bracket part of the mount first. I've had to loosen the 10mm bolt to the other end of the power steering line bracket near the passenger fender well to get extra slack for the silver bracket to clear.

    Use a ratcheting wrench, such as a Gearwrench. It will give you enough room to remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket that bolts onto the mount where a regular ratchet won't. This bolt is a huge PITA and is hard to access even with the top silver part of the mount off. I did not put this bolt back in after I installed the new mount as it was nearly impossible for me to.

    The torque specs for all of the 14mm bolts and nuts are 38ft/lb. Not sure what the 17mm is, but I tightened to the same spec.

    Good luck to anyone attempting this themselves. A lot of it will be trial and error and having the right tools.

    • Feb 05, 2017 2:42:12 am
    H2K - Thanks for the update on what the fix was! Glad you got it all fixed!
    • Jan 08, 2018 2:29:10 pm
    I just did this on my 06. It was terrible. Getting the clearance for the aluminum bracket was a pain. I have Energy suspension mounts on the other three, so the engine barely moved down when I let out the jack. To get the clearance I needed, I had to lower the subframe and cross member over an inch until I was barely able to squeeze it past the power steering line. Then there's that bracket that bolts to the mount. I slowly worked it out with just an open ended wrench. It took forever. I too didn't put it back on, as there was no way that was going to happen. It is clear that all this was installed at the factory before the engine and crossmember were installed. It certainly wasn't designed for serviceability. Hopefully the replacement will last with the other stiffer mounts doing more of the work.
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