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DIY: Energy suspension motor mounts (front/rear)...Front control arm bushings too

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    • Mar 01, 2009 7:10:00 am
    • Edited 4 times, last by Web on Apr 08, 2010 5:05:00pm.
    Ok, well, here's the long awaited DIY for the motor mounts. Thanks to customizemyscion for the ES motor mounts and [user]DSM3383[/user] for the extra bushings.

    Most important...special thanks to Kris ( FrAnkRYzzO), Joe and Kevin for the help and the chance to work on a lift with all the tools I needed.

    WARNING: Only attempt this install if you have a good bit of time on your hands, some mechanical knowledge/skill, and EITHER a lift/press or some backyard knowledge to get these bushings out.

    Tools for the job:
    -13-24mm deep impact socket set
    -14-19mm normal metric socket set
    -breaker bar
    -blue thread locker
    -impact gun
    -butterfly impact (seen in pics for the rear mount center bolt)
    -hydraulic/pneumatic press machine
    -flat head screw driver (about 1/4 thick shank...nice and beefy)
    -antisieze/wheel bearing grease (I like antisieze better)
    -2x 6" 1/2 drive extensions
    -10,17-19 mm box wrenches


    -Trying this install without a lift or press is just stupid, so once again, DON'T TRY IT if you don't have BOTH of those 2 things.
    -You first need to get the car up in the air and remove the tires and front splash guards

    -To do the front mount, you need ro remove a small towhook-like bracket on the front crossmember

    After that, you can now tackle the 2 14 mm bolts holding the front mount bracket to the crossmember, as well as the 14mm bolt holding the mount in the bracket

    -NOTE: To remove the motor mount bracket from the crossmember, simply grap the top of the mount and twist towards the driver's side. As you twist, pull it towards the radiator and it'll slide right out.

    -Now comes time to press the old mount out and install the new ES mount in the bracket. This is where you NEED a press

    And it mounts in just as easy as it came out:

    -At this point, you can reinstall the front towhook-like bracket after the motor mount bracket is set in place (BLUE THREADLOCKER ON ALL BOLTS), but it's not necessary.



    Here's a nice undershot of the front subframe and the labeled bolts

    We ended up simply lowering the subframe, rather than removing it completely, just to try and save a bit of work in the end .

    Here's some pics of the bolts loosened on the front subframe and related components:

    Now it's the B**CH'S turn to come out...
    -You first want to remove the center through bolt on the rear mount...this is where the extensions and butterfly impact come into play

    Removing the Spipe will help a LOT in removing the bracket so get it out of the way early if you can (spring bolts on base of header are 14mm)

    After you have removed the 4 14mm bolts holding the bracket into the subframe (and lowered the outside 2 bolts (18-19 mm) along with unbolting the sway bar links from the struts, you can begin to lower the front subframe.

    After you remove the Spipe and lower the front subframe, look up to where the metal heat shields are for the CAT. Bend them up and out of the way and you'll find a 10mm bolt holding the shift cables to the body. Remove the bolt to allow some flex in the cables:

    There's no real "direction" I can give you on how to take the rear motor mount bracket out, but just keep an eye out for the hard lines leading to the power steering rack. You DON'T want to break those steel lines b/c that's just MORE work and money you'll need to fix the car. Just be careful and if possible, have a few hands helping you out so that lines and cables can be pushed out of the way. The 3 bolts that are mounted onto the bracket (one is a bolt from the subframe) tends to grab anything and everything in their exiting of the well as the reinstall

    Finally, give a good F U to the bracket postion when you succeed.

    Once it's out, here's the OEM mount:

    Time for the press once again and after that, here's what you get:

    NOTE: There's a metal sleeve that needs to come out and we found that cutting a small slit into the ring helped break it free from it's seat.

    Super lube the bracket with bearing grease or antisieze, as illustrated, and press the new bushing in place:

    No comparison from the OEM one though, no camera at that time, wasn''s a pic of the mounts and on the LEFT you can see the ES rear mount bushing:

    And here's all the old parts:

    Now...after you somehow get the bracket back INTO the car and in place, reverse your steps and make sure all bolts have blue threadlocker on them. You can now put the subframe all back together and tighten all bolts down to toque spec (600 ft/lbs with blue threadlocker worked for me )

    From here on out, you just need to replace the splash gaurds and you are done with the motor mounts .....unless you are doing the front control arms as well...



    This is where you will need to remove the control arm brackets that mount the control arm to the body:

    Also remove the 3 bolts from the lower ball joint:

    Finally, remove the primary bolt holding the rear bushing inplace for the front control arm:

    Not many pictures here b/c it was getting late and we'd been at this for 8 hours already so it's more explanation.

    After the bolts are removed, pull and twist the control arm until it pops out of the subframe housing. You will have to remove the primary bushing and if you want, the smaller bushings located at the secondary bolt area (we didn't though b/c it didn't fit in the press).

    The rear primary mount needs to be cut and then BURNT out with a torch. This is where you light the rubber on fire and just let it burn its way off. You must salvage the metal oval sleeve from the rear primary bushing for reuse in the new one.

    After it's cleaned, press the bushing in place:

    LUBE THAT REAR BUSHING b/c it will squeak/pop after a few miles of driving. The hole in the center where the oval sleeve will sit needs lubrication as well.

    Once the bushing is pressed, lube the center and press the sleeve in place. Once all that is complete, reverse your steps and feed the primary bushing into the subframe (with the assistance of a mallet) and seat it, along with the secondary bushings in place. Tighten all bolts and use blue threadlocker.

    After the 8 hours of work...the car is back together:

    DIFFICULTY = 4 out of 5 so be prepared to be at this for a while.

    • Mar 01, 2009 7:26:31 am
    nice write up. i did my roomates mounts on his redline with a crowbar, screwdriver, dish soap, and a rubber hammer. so i will definately be doing this shortly. my motor moves around to much
    • Mar 01, 2009 7:32:41 am
    nice impact wrench.... does it work well.... dude i wonder if anyone caught the way it was modeled
    • Mar 01, 2009 7:46:15 am
    HtownRS09 wrote:
    nice impact wrench.... does it work well.... dude i wonder if anyone caught the way it was modeled

    • Mar 01, 2009 8:07:10 am
    • Edited 1 times, last by FrAnkRYzzO on Mar 01, 2009 8:07:36am.
    Great write-up, Jeff!

    We had a lot of fun doing this yesterday, but having the right tools and equipment made all the difference. To anyone who has done this install in a driveway, I take my hat off to you as you are a more patient man than I.
    • Mar 01, 2009 8:07:14 am
    Yea I saw that. My web, what big extensions you have lmao
    • Mar 01, 2009 9:37:55 am
    Great write up WEB. That looked like a pain in the dick. Glad to see other members taking the time to help especially on such a more difficult task.

    Side note: we need to meet up so that you can see my car in the real and i can feel teh smoothness of no motor jerky.
    • Mar 01, 2009 3:22:17 pm
    you spelled pneumatic wrong in your op =)
    • Mar 01, 2009 3:26:05 pm
    nslasha wrote:
    you spelled pneumatic wrong in your op =)

    • Mar 01, 2009 3:53:17 pm
    I did this as well but I did it with out a press hehe. I used plenty of FIRE from a butane torch hehe. they are awesome tho.
    • Mar 01, 2009 3:55:53 pm
    Yeah, the front control arm bushing had to "reuse" the metal pivot sleeve so after pressing the main bushing out, we just got the torch and set it on fire . As it burnt off, it became very brittle and broke free from the sleeve. A little sanding to clean it up, and that's it

    ***Hats off to you for not using a press. My rear bushing stretched almost 3 inches before finally tearing. The control arm bushings were even more of a challenge b/c they were glued AND pressed in place. They didn't want to move for anything.
    • Mar 01, 2009 4:04:27 pm
    Yea man it was a pain A torch and a hammer. I heated the metal and that helped in the metal sleve being hammered out. If I had to do it again Fire and a press would be the best. Oh yea I had an Air Chisel haha.
    • Mar 01, 2009 4:20:39 pm
    Yeah, we ended up using an air saws-all and cut a little knotch into it. A mallet and flat chisel did the rest of the work and as soon as the ring snapped, it just peeled right out.
    • Mar 01, 2009 4:30:59 pm
    Hells yeaaaaa
    • Mar 01, 2009 4:57:52 pm
    Hats off to you web. I did this once without a press and never again will I do it!
    • Mar 02, 2009 6:27:11 am
    The metal rings aren't hard to press out if you can find the right size tubing. For the rear one that is oblong, you can get a 3.5" piece of tubing, put it in a vice, and make it oval shaped so it can press on the edges of the metal tube. I think installing the bushings themselves only accounted for 20 minutes of the project that took about 4 hours. Also, it is much easier to get the bushings started in the mounts with a vice, and then most of them can just be forced through the rest of the way by hand.
    • Mar 02, 2009 6:33:09 am
    I just slammed them in by hand.
    • Mar 02, 2009 7:46:28 am
    Screw that, I'll stick to a vice! haha
    • Mar 02, 2009 8:06:25 am
    HAHA Did you lube them up if so they slide right in. oh and did you use white lithium grease?
    • Mar 02, 2009 8:26:12 am
    I used antisieze.....slicker than bearing grease and holds up better to heat/moisture than lithium grease. Those bushings were very firm!
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