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Water Pump (with DIY)

    • Nov 10, 2008 5:12:13 am
    hmm my shop got the new water and oil pump directly from toyota.. hopefully they werent 400 dollars.. lol
    • Nov 10, 2008 5:21:42 am
    You get dealer parts, you're going to pay dealer prices as well as mark up from the shop that's installing them.

    Just found the oil pump for 160$:
    http://catalog.autohausaz...A6010&part=Oil%20Pump
    • Nov 10, 2008 5:23:14 am
    shit. im screwed.
    • Nov 10, 2008 6:02:20 am
    The leaking weep hole is telling you there is a leaking internal seal in your water pump. When coolant gets past the seal it will errode the impeller bearing causing the pump to seize.

    I would not wait to replace the water pump, you might end up stuck on the freeway.
    • Nov 10, 2008 4:04:03 pm
    well i went to the dealership to get my passenger seat fixed and had them check my water pump just in case cuz my coolant resorvoir was kinda low and they told me my water pump was leaking so im glad ya posted this up cuz if not i wouldve never noticed and thank god for warranty cuz they replaced it for free.
    • Nov 10, 2008 4:19:51 pm
    Man, this post is so helpful to me. I saw a puddle of fluids under my car so I took it into the shop and they said there was nothing wrong w/ it. When I drove away and parked a saw the puddle appear again. These guys are so #%$*&#%*& stupid. Pisses me off now I have to take it back in and show them what might be wrong so they can replace it for free for my...good thing for that extended warrenty
    • Nov 10, 2008 4:41:20 pm
    Yeah, this is gonna get done sometime this week hopefully....if not tomorrow. The tensioner is going to be easy so that I can wait on a bit but will order it now. I am going to pick up the waterpump tomorrow from Autozone. It's a lifetime warranty on the part so for 50$ (I also get a discount ) I can't complain about that.
    • Nov 10, 2008 4:47:39 pm
    The one thing that I am not sure about is that all aftermarket water pumps for our car do not come with the o-ring seal. It states that there is no OE number from Scion/Toyota for the seal so sealant is ok to use. I'd rather get that seal if possible so, if anyone finds that seal between now and tomorrow morning please post it on here. I'm gonna run by the dealer tomorrow before picking the water pump up and check and if they have it, I'll post the part number.
    • Nov 11, 2008 4:09:42 am
    Yeah there is no replacement O-ring for the Water pump. Even in the factory repair manual they tell you to use silicon sealant.
    • Nov 11, 2008 4:27:14 am
    Here is the repair steps to replace the water pump.

    Service and Repair

    WATER PUMP


    REMOVAL


    DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL CAUTION: Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the negative(-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt pretensioner activation.
    1)DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
    2)REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
    3)REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
    4)REMOVE FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
    5)REMOVE GENERATOR ASSEMBLY



    7)REMOVE WATER PUMP PULLEY
    a) Using SST, remove the 4 bolts and water pump pulley.
    SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-00700)



    8 REMOVE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
    a) Remove the clamp of the crankshaft position sensor from the water pump.
    b) Disconnect the wire of the crankshaft position sensor from the clamp bracket.



    c) Remove the 4 bolts, 2 nuts and clamp bracket.



    d) Using a screwdriver, pry between the water pump and cylinder block, and then remove the water pump.

    NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surface of the water pump and cylinder block.

    INSTALLATION


    1)INSTALL WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY
    a) Remove any old seal packing material from the contact surface.



    b) Apply a continuous line of seal packing as shown in the illustration.
    Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent
    Standard seal diameter: 2.2 to 2.5 mm (0.09 to 0.10 inch)

    NOTICE:


    -Remove any oil from the contact surface.
    -The parts must be set within 3 minutes after applying seal packing. Otherwise, the material must be removed and reapplied.

    c) Install the water pump and clamp bracket with the 4 bolts and 2 nuts.
    Torque: 9.0 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
    d) Install the wire of the crankshaft position sensor onto the clamp bracket.
    e) Install the clamp of the crankshaft position sensor onto the water pump.



    2)INSTALL WATER PUMP PULLEY
    a) Using SST, install the water pump pulley with the 4 bolts.
    SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-00700)
    Torque: 26 Nm (265 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.)

    3)INSTALL GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
    4)INSTALL FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
    5)ADD ENGINE COOLANT
    6)CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
    7)CHECK FOR ENGINE COOLANT LEAKAGE
    8 INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
    9)INSTALL FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
    10)PERFORM INITIALIZATION
    a) Perform initialization.

    NOTICE: Certain systems need to be initialized after disconnecting and reconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.





    • Nov 11, 2008 6:17:02 am
    YOU ARE AWESOME! I just got all my stuff and am going to do this in about another hour after the engine cools off a bit more. Didn't realize I had to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor so thanks for this instruction guide.

    I got a tube of Ultra Black Silicone to use for the new water pump...AWP-9322 Duralast from Autozone. It came with a paper gasket but I'm just going to use the silicone.
    • Nov 11, 2008 9:06:35 am
    ***Moved to belt tensioner thread



    Edit: Web
    • Nov 11, 2008 9:42:35 am
    well i went back to dealer to get my water pump checked and they checked it and ran a pressure test which showed no leakes in my water pump and since i had refilled the resorvoir they said it was full but i told them i filled it and they replace the water pump any way and since my bearings came out in my passenger seat rail cuz i dropped some coins and they got caught in the rail they are replacing both my driver and passenger seats. i love warranty lol
    • Nov 11, 2008 10:41:04 am
    I'm glad that worked out for you. Some dealers can be A-holes about that knd of thing.
    • Nov 11, 2008 1:33:59 pm
    Old pump removed...


    Old pump (left) vs. New pump (right).....Note: Residue encrusted on old weep hole


    New pump installed:


    Under view after install with engine running and car on stands: (checking for leaks)



    Took me 4 hours but should have been about 3. I had a hell of a time taking the water pump pulley off due to using blue thread locker when I installed the NST kit. This is NOT something I would "chose" to do but it was necessary so I had to.

    Test drove it on back roads (<50 mph) for about 10 miles and then tested another 10 miles on the highway (<70 mph). All is well right now so I parked it and it's sitting in the garage. Going to inspect it tomorrow before work and give it another full 48 hours before getting on it like normal. I just want to make sure that Ultra Black Silicone sets up nice and firm before playing around again with the car.
    • Nov 11, 2008 3:53:05 pm
    brianc500 wrote:
    Good work bro

    Once again, thank you for your DIY instruction guide post.
    • Nov 11, 2008 11:11:36 pm
    Well for all of you out there that gained some knowledge from this and helped you also, you are very welcome. I try my best to be helpful and I figured this was VERY important and I felt all tC owners needed to be informed. Best of luck to you all and w/ your tC's. Thanks!
    • Nov 12, 2008 3:47:04 pm
    It's been 24 hours (curing time for silicone) and no leaks. Pump seems to be working well with no noise or leaks. I have a bit of leftover coolant on some of the seams of the radiator but washing it off tonight to check it all tomorrow. If all is well tomorrow, I'm good to go
    • Nov 13, 2008 6:38:11 pm
    48 hours later, I'm out of the woods

    All is well with the water pump so I can keep an eye on other things in the engine now.
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