- Mar 01, 2009 11:10:00 am
- Edited 4 times, last by Web on Apr 08, 2010 9:05:00pm.
Ok, well, here's the long awaited DIY for the motor mounts. Thanks to 
customizemyscion for the ES motor mounts and 
dsm3383 for the extra bushings.
http://www.customizemyscion.com
Most important...special thanks to Kris (
FrAnkRYzzO), Joe and Kevin for the help and the chance to work on a lift with all the tools I needed.
WARNING: Only attempt this install if you have a good bit of time on your hands, some mechanical knowledge/skill, and EITHER a lift/press or some backyard knowledge to get these bushings out.
Tools for the job:
-13-24mm deep impact socket set
-14-19mm normal metric socket set
-breaker bar
-blue thread locker
-impact gun
-butterfly impact (seen in pics for the rear mount center bolt)
-hydraulic/pneumatic press machine
-torch
-flat head screw driver (about 1/4 thick shank...nice and beefy)
-antisieze/wheel bearing grease (I like antisieze better)
-2x 6" 1/2 drive extensions
-10,17-19 mm box wrenches
FRONT MOTOR MOUNT....CAKE
-Trying this install without a lift or press is just stupid, so once again, DON'T TRY IT if you don't have BOTH of those 2 things.
-You first need to get the car up in the air and remove the tires and front splash guards
-To do the front mount, you need ro remove a small towhook-like bracket on the front crossmember
After that, you can now tackle the 2 14 mm bolts holding the front mount bracket to the crossmember, as well as the 14mm bolt holding the mount in the bracket
-NOTE: To remove the motor mount bracket from the crossmember, simply grap the top of the mount and twist towards the driver's side. As you twist, pull it towards the radiator and it'll slide right out.
-Now comes time to press the old mount out and install the new ES mount in the bracket. This is where you NEED a press
And it mounts in just as easy as it came out:
-At this point, you can reinstall the front towhook-like bracket after the motor mount bracket is set in place (BLUE THREADLOCKER ON ALL BOLTS), but it's not necessary.
----------------------------------
REAR MOTOR MOUNT.....OH THE ...J...OY
Here's a nice undershot of the front subframe and the labeled bolts
We ended up simply lowering the subframe, rather than removing it completely, just to try and save a bit of work in the end
.
Here's some pics of the bolts loosened on the front subframe and related components:
Now it's the B**CH'S turn to come out...
-You first want to remove the center through bolt on the rear mount...this is where the extensions and butterfly impact come into play
Removing the Spipe will help a LOT in removing the bracket so get it out of the way early if you can (spring bolts on base of header are 14mm)
After you have removed the 4 14mm bolts holding the bracket into the subframe (and lowered the outside 2 bolts (18-19 mm) along with unbolting the sway bar links from the struts, you can begin to lower the front subframe.
After you remove the Spipe and lower the front subframe, look up to where the metal heat shields are for the CAT. Bend them up and out of the way and you'll find a 10mm bolt holding the shift cables to the body. Remove the bolt to allow some flex in the cables:
There's no real "direction" I can give you on how to take the rear motor mount bracket out, but just keep an eye out for the hard lines leading to the power steering rack. You DON'T want to break those steel lines b/c that's just MORE work and money you'll need to fix the car. Just be careful and if possible, have a few hands helping you out so that lines and cables can be pushed out of the way. The 3 bolts that are mounted onto the bracket (one is a bolt from the subframe) tends to grab anything and everything in their exiting of the vehicle....as well as the reinstall
Finally, give a good F U to the bracket postion when you succeed.
Once it's out, here's the OEM mount:
Time for the press once again and after that, here's what you get:
NOTE: There's a metal sleeve that needs to come out and we found that cutting a small slit into the ring helped break it free from it's seat.
Super lube the bracket with bearing grease or antisieze, as illustrated, and press the new bushing in place:
No comparison from the OEM one though, no camera at that time, wasn't...here's a pic of the mounts and on the LEFT you can see the ES rear mount bushing:
And here's all the old parts:
Now...after you somehow get the bracket back INTO the car and in place, reverse your steps and make sure all bolts have blue threadlocker on them. You can now put the subframe all back together and tighten all bolts down to toque spec (600 ft/lbs with blue threadlocker worked for me)
From here on out, you just need to replace the splash gaurds and you are done with the motor mounts.....unless you are doing the front control arms as well...
-------------------------------------------
FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
This is where you will need to remove the control arm brackets that mount the control arm to the body:
Also remove the 3 bolts from the lower ball joint:
Finally, remove the primary bolt holding the rear bushing inplace for the front control arm:
Not many pictures here b/c it was getting late and we'd been at this for 8 hours already so it's more explanation.
After the bolts are removed, pull and twist the control arm until it pops out of the subframe housing. You will have to remove the primary bushing and if you want, the smaller bushings located at the secondary bolt area (we didn't though b/c it didn't fit in the press).
The rear primary mount needs to be cut and then BURNT out with a torch. This is where you light the rubber on fire and just let it burn its way off. You must salvage the metal oval sleeve from the rear primary bushing for reuse in the new one.
After it's cleaned, press the bushing in place:
LUBE THAT REAR BUSHING b/c it will squeak/pop after a few miles of driving. The hole in the center where the oval sleeve will sit needs lubrication as well.
Once the bushing is pressed, lube the center and press the sleeve in place. Once all that is complete, reverse your steps and feed the primary bushing into the subframe (with the assistance of a mallet) and seat it, along with the secondary bushings in place. Tighten all bolts and use blue threadlocker.
After the 8 hours of work...the car is back together:
DIFFICULTY = 4 out of 5 so be prepared to be at this for a while.
customizemyscion for the ES motor mounts and dsm3383 for the extra bushings. http://www.customizemyscion.com
Most important...special thanks to Kris (
FrAnkRYzzO), Joe and Kevin for the help and the chance to work on a lift with all the tools I needed.WARNING: Only attempt this install if you have a good bit of time on your hands, some mechanical knowledge/skill, and EITHER a lift/press or some backyard knowledge to get these bushings out.
Tools for the job:
-13-24mm deep impact socket set
-14-19mm normal metric socket set
-breaker bar
-blue thread locker
-impact gun
-butterfly impact (seen in pics for the rear mount center bolt)
-hydraulic/pneumatic press machine
-torch
-flat head screw driver (about 1/4 thick shank...nice and beefy)
-antisieze/wheel bearing grease (I like antisieze better)
-2x 6" 1/2 drive extensions
-10,17-19 mm box wrenches
FRONT MOTOR MOUNT....CAKE
-Trying this install without a lift or press is just stupid, so once again, DON'T TRY IT if you don't have BOTH of those 2 things.
-You first need to get the car up in the air and remove the tires and front splash guards
-To do the front mount, you need ro remove a small towhook-like bracket on the front crossmember
After that, you can now tackle the 2 14 mm bolts holding the front mount bracket to the crossmember, as well as the 14mm bolt holding the mount in the bracket
-NOTE: To remove the motor mount bracket from the crossmember, simply grap the top of the mount and twist towards the driver's side. As you twist, pull it towards the radiator and it'll slide right out.
-Now comes time to press the old mount out and install the new ES mount in the bracket. This is where you NEED a press
And it mounts in just as easy as it came out:
-At this point, you can reinstall the front towhook-like bracket after the motor mount bracket is set in place (BLUE THREADLOCKER ON ALL BOLTS), but it's not necessary.
----------------------------------
REAR MOTOR MOUNT.....OH THE ...J...OY
Here's a nice undershot of the front subframe and the labeled bolts
We ended up simply lowering the subframe, rather than removing it completely, just to try and save a bit of work in the end
.Here's some pics of the bolts loosened on the front subframe and related components:
Now it's the B**CH'S turn to come out...
-You first want to remove the center through bolt on the rear mount...this is where the extensions and butterfly impact come into play
Removing the Spipe will help a LOT in removing the bracket so get it out of the way early if you can (spring bolts on base of header are 14mm)
After you have removed the 4 14mm bolts holding the bracket into the subframe (and lowered the outside 2 bolts (18-19 mm) along with unbolting the sway bar links from the struts, you can begin to lower the front subframe.
After you remove the Spipe and lower the front subframe, look up to where the metal heat shields are for the CAT. Bend them up and out of the way and you'll find a 10mm bolt holding the shift cables to the body. Remove the bolt to allow some flex in the cables:
There's no real "direction" I can give you on how to take the rear motor mount bracket out, but just keep an eye out for the hard lines leading to the power steering rack. You DON'T want to break those steel lines b/c that's just MORE work and money you'll need to fix the car. Just be careful and if possible, have a few hands helping you out so that lines and cables can be pushed out of the way. The 3 bolts that are mounted onto the bracket (one is a bolt from the subframe) tends to grab anything and everything in their exiting of the vehicle....as well as the reinstall
Finally, give a good F U to the bracket postion when you succeed.
Once it's out, here's the OEM mount:
Time for the press once again and after that, here's what you get:
NOTE: There's a metal sleeve that needs to come out and we found that cutting a small slit into the ring helped break it free from it's seat.
Super lube the bracket with bearing grease or antisieze, as illustrated, and press the new bushing in place:
No comparison from the OEM one though, no camera at that time, wasn't...here's a pic of the mounts and on the LEFT you can see the ES rear mount bushing:
And here's all the old parts:
Now...after you somehow get the bracket back INTO the car and in place, reverse your steps and make sure all bolts have blue threadlocker on them. You can now put the subframe all back together and tighten all bolts down to toque spec (600 ft/lbs with blue threadlocker worked for me
)From here on out, you just need to replace the splash gaurds and you are done with the motor mounts
.....unless you are doing the front control arms as well...-------------------------------------------
FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
This is where you will need to remove the control arm brackets that mount the control arm to the body:
Also remove the 3 bolts from the lower ball joint:
Finally, remove the primary bolt holding the rear bushing inplace for the front control arm:
Not many pictures here b/c it was getting late and we'd been at this for 8 hours already so it's more explanation.
After the bolts are removed, pull and twist the control arm until it pops out of the subframe housing. You will have to remove the primary bushing and if you want, the smaller bushings located at the secondary bolt area (we didn't though b/c it didn't fit in the press).
The rear primary mount needs to be cut and then BURNT out with a torch. This is where you light the rubber on fire and just let it burn its way off. You must salvage the metal oval sleeve from the rear primary bushing for reuse in the new one.
After it's cleaned, press the bushing in place:
LUBE THAT REAR BUSHING b/c it will squeak/pop after a few miles of driving. The hole in the center where the oval sleeve will sit needs lubrication as well.
Once the bushing is pressed, lube the center and press the sleeve in place. Once all that is complete, reverse your steps and feed the primary bushing into the subframe (with the assistance of a mallet) and seat it, along with the secondary bushings in place. Tighten all bolts and use blue threadlocker.
After the 8 hours of work...the car is back together:
DIFFICULTY = 4 out of 5 so be prepared to be at this for a while.
dude i wonder if anyone caught the way it was modeled 
