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DIY: CEL Eliminator (AntiFouler) made from scratch

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    • Jul 07, 2010 1:43:18 pm
    So just to start out I take no responsibility if you drill a hole through your self in anyway shape or form, cut your self, get scrap metal in your eyes or harm your self in any way shape or form while attempting to do this.

    I was getting sick of looking at my check engine light throwing me the the code PO420 caused by my DC Header and I'm cheap and i didnt want to order the ones that they had online for anywhere from $15 to $50. So here is a DIY on how to make your own.

    What you will need is:
    Drill(cordless or Electric)
    7/16" drill bit
    1/2" drill bit
    Eye protection of any form
    Help! Brand Spark Plug Non-Foulers part#42009 From Autozone or wherever for $4.99
    Vice Grips or something to hold your Fouler in place while drilling



    1. Take one of the foulers out of the package and place it in vice grips or whatever with the small hole facing the ground. place the other one somewhere where you will not lose it being as you will need it later.


    2. Now with your Drill with the 7/16" drill bit in it and wearing EYE PROTECTION drill a hole all the way through. Start drilling slowly and pick up speed as soon and you feel the metal inside of the fouler start to give way to the drill bit.



    3. now once you have drilled through with the 7/16" drill bit turn the fouler over(watch out it will be hot) so that it is now facing the opposite direction(top facing you)


    4. Now switch out your Drill bit to the 1/2" drill bit. once again start drilling through the now larger hole till you have made it all the way through. The reason i used 2 different size drill bits was because I didn't want the drill bit to Seize and get stuck inside of the fouler.


    5. now that you are done drilling you hole large enough for the top of you O2 Sensor to fit snugly into your fouler you might want to let it cool off. i didn't feel like waiting so i ran it under some cold water for a few seconds.



    6. Now take once of the washers that you received with your fowler's and place it on the bit that you just drilled through.


    7. now that you have the 2 foulers. the one with the larger hole and the one with the original size hole. Screw the original unmodified fouler on to the fouler. when you are finished the original unmodified fouler should be on the top of the modified one.




    8. now you are done and you are ready to install this onto your rear O2 Sensor. If anyone feels that they are unable to do this or do not have the necessary equipment to do so I can make you one for $25 shipped
    • Jul 07, 2010 1:59:55 pm
    No idea what this does but nice write up
    • Jul 07, 2010 2:01:28 pm
    xGhostx wrote:
    No idea what this does but nice write up


    CEL=Check Engine Light which can be produced do to a number of reasons, an eliminator tricks your rear O2 sensor into thinking everything is all good
    • Jul 07, 2010 2:05:25 pm
    xGhostx wrote:
    No idea what this does but nice write up


    It tricks the secondary o2 sensor in our midpipes to read a lower carb reading so it won't trigger the "Bad Cat" CEL. Technically, it just moves the sensor further away from the exhaust path. The only thing i would add to this....is thread locker when you actually install it......mine unscrewed and blew off twice when i first applied this mod. It's great too, since it's about 1/10th the price of buying one from weapon r or some brand name company.
    • Jul 07, 2010 2:07:55 pm
    jawsidmtc wrote:
    xGhostx wrote:
    No idea what this does but nice write up


    It tricks the secondary o2 sensor in our midpipes to read a lower carb reading so it won't trigger the "Bad Cat" CEL. Technically, it just moves the sensor further away from the exhaust path. The only thing i would add to this....is thread locker when you actually install it......mine unscrewed and blew off twice when i first applied this mod. It's great too, since it's about 1/10th the price of buying one from weapon r or some brand name company.


    that is what those little washers are for that come with the foulers. they have these little tabs on the them attach to the threads of the both foulers
    • Jul 07, 2010 3:20:45 pm
    bloodgrave wrote:
    jawsidmtc wrote:
    xGhostx wrote:
    No idea what this does but nice write up


    It tricks the secondary o2 sensor in our midpipes to read a lower carb reading so it won't trigger the "Bad Cat" CEL. Technically, it just moves the sensor further away from the exhaust path. The only thing i would add to this....is thread locker when you actually install it......mine unscrewed and blew off twice when i first applied this mod. It's great too, since it's about 1/10th the price of buying one from weapon r or some brand name company.


    that is what those little washers are for that come with the foulers. they have these little tabs on the them attach to the threads of the both foulers

    Yup...i used them....but i somehow managed to blow them off the spipe...then again, the threading on the Spipe itself could've been the problem. I'd still use threadlocker for the hell of it...just in case.
    • Jan 26, 2011 4:16:51 pm
    This worked out great for me. Thanks alot. It Wasn't hard at all
    • Nov 15, 2011 6:07:09 am
    what about the intake check engine light. do you have a diy for that
    • Nov 29, 2011 1:48:56 pm
    • Edited 1 times, last by skeeter04 on Nov 29, 2011 1:50:20pm.
    2010tcrs wrote:
    what about the intake check engine light. do you have a diy for that


    You have to reset your ECU to not throw a CEL with your intake. To reset your ECU you must unhook your battery for maybe an hour to be safe. Most people would say 30 mins, but I say an hour, just to be safe. Then Start your car and let it idle for about 20 minutes so the ECU can adjust to all the extra added airflow. Do not goose your engine or you will have to start all over. Then turn off your motor. Next time you start it back up you should be fine. This should solve your intake CEL problem.
    • Nov 30, 2011 4:36:21 pm
    Hey quick question for you. I drive an 05 tC turbod I do have a P0420 and i need to get my emissions done ASAP would this help with any P0420 if it is the o2 sensor that is causing it? Great write up by the way.
    • Dec 05, 2011 12:57:24 pm
    It should. As long as you reset your ECU while doing so.
    • Aug 01, 2012 7:52:47 pm
    I know this post is old as crap - but I must add that this worked 100% for me. It's been over a week, plus a 200 mile road trip to Myrtle Beach. No CEL.
    • Sep 24, 2012 10:02:37 pm

    Hi this thing works like crazy ..i only spend $7 to get fix my CEL this is crazy. thankx dude ur the man. p0420 catilac ifecationcy bank 1 that problem solved from this easy trick The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar

    so when we moving The downstream O2 sensor reading will be change it's little far from the exhaust pipe ,,,,

    i just wanna post this thanks to the bloodgrave
    • Sep 25, 2012 5:02:58 am
    xpbikka wrote:

    catilac ifecationcy


    • Sep 25, 2012 8:50:57 am
    • Edited 3 times, last by sgtrod64 on Sep 25, 2012 8:57:23am.
    Here I come with the stupid question... this is for the one on the exhaust manifold?the top one or the bottom one?



    uuuhhh this is my friend George!!!





    • Sep 25, 2012 5:12:30 pm
    This is for the O2 sensor on the S-Pipe, after the exhaust manifold.

    It's under the car. The S-Pipe is the pipe right after the exhaust manifold. Follow the exhaust flow, can't miss that puppy.

    It's intended for use if you've got an aftermarket header without a cat on it. Tricks the 2nd O2 sensor into thinking there's nothing wrong
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