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Home > User Content > DIY / Install Guides > DIY: E-brake adjustment .....EDITED.....adjust shoes

DIY: E-brake adjustment .....EDITED.....adjust shoes

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Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Here's the steps:

1)loosen and return cable to stock (about 13 clicks to full lock)
2)make sure front wheel doesn't move (block in front or behind depending on how you are facing a hill)
3)remove back tire (make sure ebrake is NOT engaged)
4)turn rotor until little black rubber cicle is in 6 o'clock position

5)use a flat head screw driver and remove rubber circle
6)look into the hole and find a gear looking screw (the picture shows the rotor removed but there's no need .........the gear/bolt is at the bottom)

7)use flat tip screw driver and place at bottom of gear and turn gear upwards (this pushes the shoes against the rotor drum)
turn until you feel the screw stop turning with normal amount of pressure (don't wrench the shoes against the rotor drum)...you should feel the rotor imobilized (you can't turn it)
9)when you feel the screw stop, place the screw driver at the top of the little gear and push it back down about 2 clicks..(you will feel the rotor loosen and spin free again)
10)replace little rubber circle and wheel
11)repeat steps 3-10 on other side

Final look: (Fully locked is less than 1/2 the distance it used to be)



I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Nov 11, 2006 04:16pm
klepto

Reg'd: Aug 31, 2005

Master Mechanic

thanks bro....i was just talking about that w/my other buddy when we did my sways and the week before when we did my rotors...

[#] Nov 27, 2006 03:50pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Yeah, it's a great feel and definately a lot better when parking on hills.


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Nov 27, 2006 03:50pm
rrimportracer


Reg'd: Feb 28, 2006

Godlike Advisor

i think you have to do it if you lower your car, ever since i lowered my car i havent been able to get my e brake to fully lock my rear tires up, im about to do it on my car today or tomorrow


myspace.com/asphalt_photos check us out!!!
[#] Nov 27, 2006 05:44pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Weird. It must have a suspended joint holding the metal line mounted to the frame which creates more slack when lowered. hmmm


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Nov 27, 2006 06:33pm
soros151

Reg'd: Dec 01, 2006

Tire Changer

Thanks, this helped me a lot!

Either u do it, or u don't, No regrets.
U gotta Pay to Play.

159whp/161wtq.
[#] Dec 01, 2006 09:56am
andino


Reg'd: Mar 05, 2006

Godlike Advisor

rrimportracer wrote:
i think you have to do it if you lower your car, ever since i lowered my car i havent been able to get my e brake to fully lock my rear tires up, im about to do it on my car today or tomorrow


lol that might explain why my car rolls back a little when i put the e-brake up on a hill





Are you in SoCal? Come to our CStC meets!
Located in Socal? Need something Installed?
Have a question and no one is willing to help? Shoot me a PM or hit me up on AIM.
[#] Jan 25, 2007 09:55pm
soros151

Reg'd: Dec 01, 2006

Tire Changer

Good Add!

Either u do it, or u don't, No regrets.
U gotta Pay to Play.

159whp/161wtq.
[#] Jan 27, 2007 11:29am
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

thanks, i thought it would help out a bit.


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Jan 27, 2007 11:32am
hvtopiwala


Reg'd: Jan 03, 2007

Godlike Advisor

haha, we should make video tutorials on how to install radios, subs, springs, and other stuff.
[#] Jan 27, 2007 09:19pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

It would definately be a good idea to go along with written/pictorial documents. I have my tripod I can mount the camera on and do my tutorials


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Jan 27, 2007 09:21pm
hvtopiwala


Reg'd: Jan 03, 2007

Godlike Advisor

heh, i still have 1year and a half of free oil changes (havnt used one yet). first one in 5 months

[#] Jan 27, 2007 09:34pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

I still have 3 free ones ....Never ever going to use them b/c I don't trust the dealer and I only use Amsoil


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Jan 27, 2007 09:48pm
hvtopiwala


Reg'd: Jan 03, 2007

Godlike Advisor

i dont trust the dealer that much, but i take pictures of my cars exterior and interior and i will rage on there ass if the pics dont match up

[#] Jan 27, 2007 09:51pm
Vicious


Reg'd: May 03, 2005

El Chupacabra

Damn, i'm lacking tools to adjust the bolts >=[ i'll do it at the shop next week. I inverted that silver ring between the shift knob and boot.. looks alot nicer and makes the boot look alot baggier




Y s0 S3ri0uS?
[#] Jan 28, 2007 12:15am
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Yeah, my boot was all compressed so I did it for that reason too


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Jan 29, 2007 08:50am
Aciidsneaker


Reg'd: Feb 24, 2007



Nice DIY Web.


[#] Mar 20, 2007 05:30pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Thanks.


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Mar 20, 2007 05:44pm
Dr_Isotope


Reg'd: Sep 02, 2005

Chief Mechanic

It's not even remotely the same. Adjusting the brake tension in the drum (As you should do) does not affect the tension on the cable one bit. It moves the linings closer to the drum so when you pull up the parking brake handle, they have less distance to travel. When you adjust as the handle, you're just making the handle harder to pull.

My handle is 4 clicks to full lock, even when parked on an incline. I've never touched the adjustment at the handle end, but IIRC, there's about 1/4" of thread showing.

If you crank the cable as tight as you want to keep the low handle height, one day, it will fail. Not today, not tomorrow, probably not this year, but every time you pull up on the handle when parked on a grade, you're stretching the cable. One day, the weight will be just right, and it will give out.

Last I heard, replacement parking brake cable-Y runs about $300. Add that on top of the cost of whatever your car rolls into.


Custom parts for your Scion tC: Doctor Isotope dot Com
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:28pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

I don't pull for dear life on my ebrake handle to engage it though. I can see that being a problem if you yank on it hard (not that it does anything more than a normal pull), but for how I pull on it and where I park, I almost never NEED to use it, i just engage it out of habit.

I was in the rear section of the car at first, but could not find the adjustment cable or some sort of expansion screw that could be adjusted. Do you have any pictures/DIYs as to how to do it from the rear brakes? If so, I'll loosen the handle and tighten the shoes....I just haven't had any negative effect from this at all. Even when I changed my rotors, the inside (drum section) didn't have any pad scoring/wearing as some others had warned me about.


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:34pm
Dr_Isotope


Reg'd: Sep 02, 2005

Chief Mechanic

Just remove the rubber plug and adjust the tensioner with a small screwdriver. Rubber plug should be at the 6 o'clock position. No need to take anything off of the car other than the tires.

From the outside:


From the inside:



Custom parts for your Scion tC: Doctor Isotope dot Com
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:39pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Alright, thanks. Didn't know if it was setup just like a drum brake setup....Just like my truck. Thanks, will do this this weekend when I am painting my calipers and rotor hubs.


**but fair warning to people that do it this way too..........you CAN over tighten the shoes on the inside of the rotor hub and cause heat glazing of the shoes and possibly crack the shoes or rotor from excess heat build up. Almost did that on my truck.


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:41pm
Dr_Isotope


Reg'd: Sep 02, 2005

Chief Mechanic

The rule of thumb is to tighten it until it won't move, then back off two clicks. Mine was so sloppy loose from the factory, the driver's side adjuster took 21 clicks, and 19 for the passenger side. Looooose.


Custom parts for your Scion tC: Doctor Isotope dot Com
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:44pm
Web


Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

Geez.....that's rediculous. Just like regular drum brakes though, since you have to back off, it has a small spring loaded arm that can be pushed off and the screw spun in reverse correct?


I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones. A.E.
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:46pm
Dr_Isotope


Reg'd: Sep 02, 2005

Chief Mechanic

Yep, it's a typical drum brake under there. It doesn't self adjust, because they don't want constant lining to drum contact.



Custom parts for your Scion tC: Doctor Isotope dot Com
[#] Apr 19, 2007 12:49pm
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