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Home > Performance Mods > Suspension & Brakes > uneven brake pad wear.

uneven brake pad wear.

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pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
 Alright perhaps I havent searched hard enough but I can't seem to find an answer.
I hear some bad scraping from m brakes all of a sudden so thenext day (today) I take out my pads and check them out. I found the problem. One of the metal shims on my passenger side front brake was half fallen off and was rubbing against something. Also it's really close to about time to change my pads. ok two reasons to buy new pads, already on order. HERES WHERE MY QUESTION COMES IN... i went to the drivers side and took off the pads. THEY WERE LESS THAN HALF WORN... have any of you come across this same problem?

[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:25pm
Web
Maryland, US
  • THE SHADOW
 That would be due to uneven caliper pressure distribution. One side of the car is braking harder than the other. Possible caliper piston stuck or not retracting completely on one side vs. the other.


Complaining is futile when you supported the victory.
[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:26pm
O5_TRD_tC
California, US
  • Vehicle Designer
 theres only 1 metal shim per pad, it didn't fall off

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[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:29pm
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
O5_TRD_tC wrote:
theres only 1 metal shim per pad, it didn't fall off

right... thats what i meant/wrote. that one metal shim was hanging off.
[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:31pm
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
Web wrote:
That would be due to uneven caliper pressure distribution. One side of the car is braking harder than the other. Possible caliper piston stuck or not retracting completely on one side vs. the other.

do you know how to fix that???
**off topic- went with EBC greenstuff **

[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:34pm
Web
Maryland, US
  • THE SHADOW
 You have to check if you have any air in the lines or any rust build-up in the piston bore on the caliper. Only way to check either is to flush the brake system thoroughly and bleed it or remove the caliper after bleeding the system, remove the piston seal and inspect the piston in the housing of the caliper. If all is well, then reverse the steps and thoroughly bleed the system afterwards.


Complaining is futile when you supported the victory.
[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:37pm
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
 DOOD!!! Mucho Gracias! It's about time for me to bleed/replace my brake fluid anyways... (been 85,000 miles and still running on OE fluid) ........

[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:45pm
Web
Maryland, US
  • THE SHADOW
 That could be attributing to the problem. Bleed the system and replace the pads and see how they feel. B/c brake fluid loses it's ability to hold pressure upon itself over time due to moisture contamination and pressure breakdown, that could help out a lot. Good luck.


Complaining is futile when you supported the victory.
[#] Jun 22, 2008 11:47pm
krdshrk
New Brunswick
New Jersey, US
  • Godlike Advisor
 Yes definitely rebleed the brakes. Actually, you should fully re-bleed the full system, but make sure not to let the master cylinder get empty.


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2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
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[#] Jun 23, 2008 12:37am
SquallLHeart
US
  • The Techie
 and to just add to the discussion

yes, it is natural for pads to wear unevenly... due to typical turning of the car and other normal driving conditions..

i believe someone told me the front left and rear right brake pads tend to go out before the others.. or something like that...

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[#] Jun 23, 2008 02:06am
brianc500
Kalamazoo
Michigan, US
  • Master Mechanic
 Also, if your going to tear apart the front brakes, make sure you have an ample amount of caliper grease on the hardware where the pads sit. This way you know for sure that the pads are not hanging up causing the caliper not to retract properly. Also might not be a bad idea to remove the hardware and clean them thoroughly since you do have 80,000+ miles on them.





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[#] Jun 23, 2008 07:05am
krdshrk
New Brunswick
New Jersey, US
  • Godlike Advisor
 That's only if you need to open up the caliper - I don't think he'll need to.


Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 23, 2008 10:07am
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
 I'm hoping not to have to crack open the calipers. This weekend I'm hoping install the pads and definitely flush the whole system and replace with synthetic.
I was trying to be sarcastic before... I know I'm LOOOOOOONG over due on the fluids.

[#] Jun 23, 2008 01:28pm
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
SquallLHeart wrote:
and to just add to the discussion

yes, it is natural for pads to wear unevenly... due to typical turning of the car and other normal driving conditions..

i believe someone told me the front left and rear right brake pads tend to go out before the others.. or something like that...


thats good to know but i'm gonna post up some pics and could you tell me if this much difference is normal. i was suprised when i saw it. this is my first brake job that i've done myself so i dont know what's within exceptable/expected limits.

this is the driver's side front

this is the passenger side front

this is the drivers

and this is all four front pads.

and this is a papparazzo close up
[#] Jun 25, 2008 05:11pm
pooorboi
California, US
  • Detailer
 also when i bleed my brakes
im not trying to get air out, i'm replacing the existihng fluid, so do i need to drain out the old fluid?
or do i just bleed the brakes, fill the resvoir, bleed, fill, bleed fill? and if i do this than how do i know when to go on to the next caliper/how do i know when all the fluid in the caliper i am working on has been completely replaced?

[#] Jun 25, 2008 05:15pm
krdshrk
New Brunswick
New Jersey, US
  • Godlike Advisor
 Wow that's a big difference in pad wear....


Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 25, 2008 06:51pm
Web
Maryland, US
  • THE SHADOW
pooorboi wrote:
also when i bleed my brakes
im not trying to get air out, i'm replacing the existihng fluid, so do i need to drain out the old fluid?
or do i just bleed the brakes, fill the resvoir, bleed, fill, bleed fill? and if i do this than how do i know when to go on to the next caliper/how do i know when all the fluid in the caliper i am working on has been completely replaced?



Start with the passenger rear, then driver's rear, then passenger front and last driver's front.

You can do a gravity bleed (just crack the valve and let the old stuff run out and continually fill the resevoir)...it's slow but still works. You can do a one man bleed if you want and that keeps the air out of the lines. But, I recommend draining all the fluid from each line and THEN one many bleeding. Don't let the resevoir run dry EVER!.


Complaining is futile when you supported the victory.
[#] Jun 25, 2008 09:23pm

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