Guest Menu
- Home
- Forums
- Login
- Register
- Scion tC Rides
Scion News
Scion Generation
Scion tC Parts
Aftermarket Scion tC speed shop carries Scion tC exhaust, Scion tC intakes and more Scion tC parts at ScionGeneration.com
New donation system launched! Read the thread in the forums, or proceed straight to the donation area.
Forum Options
Register | Login
Advanced
Viewing Thread
Home > User Content > DIY / Install Guides > DIY: Front Brake Pads

DIY: Front Brake Pads

Related threads: ( Click here to view )
O5_TRD_tC

Reg'd: May 16, 2008

Vehicle Designer

Since gas is so expensive, I made this DIY for you guys to save money!


Disclaimer:
First of all I am not responsible if you break your own car. This is simply a guide to help you along your install.



Tools/materials:
-6" C-clamp
- 14mm Socket wrench
-Breaker bar to break lugs nuts loose
-And New pads DUH!

1) Once you have your front rims off, grab your 14mm socket and completely take off the top bolt.





2) Swing the inner caliper away from the rotor.



3)Note the positions of the pads and gently remove them.



4)Remove the two metal plates and clip off of the old pads.



5) Before reinstalling the metal pieces and clip. You want to add some grease on the BACK of the NEW pads.



6) Reinstall the metal pieces.

7) Repeat steps of second pad. (2 pads per rotor)

8 ) Grab you C-clamp and slowly turn the Brake piston back in. (1 turn every 10-15 secs. You want the piston to sit back flush. Afterwards you can now remove the C-clamp



Note: You might notice a bit of brake fluid oozing out on top in your engine bay. Nothing to worry about just get a rag and wipe it off.

9) swing the inner caliper back in and HAND tighten the 14mm bolt back on.

10) Repeat for other side.

11) Start the car and check the brake fluid level. It should still be full. If not add some brake fluid.

12)Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles


13) Your done and you just saved yourself a $100 at least by doing it yourself!


Comparison New vs. Old:




enJoy!
-Alan



The 4 LED_Headz:
Ed (etli), Trung (SquallLHeart), Alan (O5_TRD_tC), and Paul (Dakine)
[#] Jun 12, 2008 08:24pm
java09

Reg'd: Aug 05, 2007

Scion Guru

nice! short and simple. A+ from me.


2008 Turbo Scion tCizzle
POWERED BY TURBOTOYOTAS!
310WHP, 272WTQ
more to come_..
[#] Jun 12, 2008 08:28pm
O5_TRD_tC

Reg'd: May 16, 2008

Vehicle Designer

Its very easy to do. If you dont have the tools. Barrow them from family or friends.

You can buy a C-clamp at home depot and return it afterwards if you dont want to keep it after the install.


The 4 LED_Headz:
Ed (etli), Trung (SquallLHeart), Alan (O5_TRD_tC), and Paul (Dakine)
[#] Jun 12, 2008 08:30pm
krdshrk

Reg'd: Sep 29, 2007

Godlike Advisor

A brake pad spreader would work better than a c-clamp. I use this, myself - it doesn't scratch up the caliper like a c-clamp can. It's better to use the pad spreader if you've got painted calipers.

http://www.napaonline.com...n=Disc+Brake+Pad+Spreader



Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 12, 2008 08:31pm
07sctc

Reg'd: Feb 16, 2008

Tech Advisor

nice diy. i will use it when i need my pads changed. is it the same for the backs also? the first time i changed brake pads i didn't know the trick of using the c-clamp or the spreader. i ended up disconnecting the brake line and having to bleed them and all that. what an @ss that was. but you only learn by tryin.

by the way...whats an average milage to have to do this? i have about 30k, but haven't noticed any problems in brakeing.



beware of the mad sciontist !
ask me your car audio and electronics questions!!

a little signature love for good sellers....

FULL TBL KIT! O5_TRD_tC
HVAC/GAUGE LEDS garage1217.com
HID's operatic
WHEELS discounttiredirect.com (speak to Justin)
TINT (Car Show in Anderson, SC BEST Tinter Around)
[#] Jun 12, 2008 09:27pm
krdshrk

Reg'd: Sep 29, 2007

Godlike Advisor

Check the pads themselves. If it's getting down close to the backing, it's time.

I Changed over to my Stoptech Stage II @ about 15k miles, maybe 20k. I still had about 1/3 pad left on the stockers I think. I only got in 25k miles on my Axxis ultimates cuz they're high bite.



Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 12, 2008 10:03pm
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

I used to use a tool similar to a C-clamp but now I get lazy and just jam a flat head screw driver between the piston and the pad while it's on the bracket and compress it that way.



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 12, 2008 10:34pm
java09

Reg'd: Aug 05, 2007

Scion Guru

^^ GET errrr DONE!

edit for the must have:



2008 Turbo Scion tCizzle
POWERED BY TURBOTOYOTAS!
310WHP, 272WTQ
more to come_..
[#] Jun 12, 2008 10:35pm
O5_TRD_tC

Reg'd: May 16, 2008

Vehicle Designer

A C-clamp works fine. Improper compressing the piston may damage your ABS system.

Average mileage to change your front pads is ~30k

You go throught about 2-3 sets of front pads before the rear. I imagine the rear pads are the same, just smaller.


The 4 LED_Headz:
Ed (etli), Trung (SquallLHeart), Alan (O5_TRD_tC), and Paul (Dakine)
[#] Jun 13, 2008 12:28am
krdshrk

Reg'd: Sep 29, 2007

Godlike Advisor

O5_TRD_tC wrote:
You go throught about 2-3 sets of front pads before the rear. I imagine the rear pads are the same, just smaller.


Depends on your braking system. I went through rear pads just as fast as the front with my Stoptech Stage 2



Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 13, 2008 12:30am
SquallLHeart

Reg'd: Sep 09, 2004

The Techie

most cars have their front brakes wear out faster.. just due to the fast that most of them have a larger bias up there when stopping... (hmm... lol).. weight of car.. inertia/momentum/physics thing?

anyway... also keep in mind when compressing the piston.. to go slowly!


LED questions? AIM: 'SquallLHeart TN'

LED Swaps and parts available! PM me for details, questions and/or quotes.

There's Strong, and then there's RETARD Strong.
Decelerate your life.
The Few, the Proud... (they never really tell you what they're really "proud" of, eh?)
Below All (USAF - Uncle Sam's Academic Failures)
[#] Jun 13, 2008 01:29am
vastano1

Reg'd: Sep 06, 2006

Godlike Advisor

the rear pads are easier to do...its just has the one bolt...then u turn the caliper to get to the pads...then change the pads and ur done...same c-clamp needed...


click the link, donate some money to help improve our site/community

CLICK ME TO DONATE AND HELP SQMK MAKE OUR SITE BETTER
[#] Jun 13, 2008 04:41am
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

java09 wrote:
^^ GET errrr DONE!

edit for the must have:



Yup . Been doing it for years and it saves time .

This DIY is great for pads only. I have been meaning to get a full DIY together for pads/rotors but just never had time. Rotors would be just one extra step and that is to use a 17mm socket to remove the front bracket and slide the rotor off. The rear doesn't require bracket removal so the rotor will come off after you take the pads off. Just have to adjust the parking brake after that.


Stickified as well.



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 13, 2008 06:37am
OldJersey

Reg'd: Jan 09, 2007

Vehicle Designer

8 ) Grab you C-clamp and slowly turn the Brake piston back in. (1 turn every 10-15 secs. You want the piston to sit back flush. Afterwards you can now remove the C-clamp


^thats the only thing im worried about



[#] Jun 13, 2008 07:44am
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

OldJersey wrote:
8 ) Grab you C-clamp and slowly turn the Brake piston back in. (1 turn every 10-15 secs. You want the piston to sit back flush. Afterwards you can now remove the C-clamp


^thats the only thing im worried about



Why? That's easy. Just push it in slowly and when it stops, you're done.



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 13, 2008 07:46am
OldJersey

Reg'd: Jan 09, 2007

Vehicle Designer

oh... and u use a screwdriver?.... the guy at the dealer told me mine are down to 2mm and ihave 16k on the car... does it sound legit?



[#] Jun 13, 2008 08:14am
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

2mm is REALLY low for 16k unless you do a lot of stop and go and heavy braking.

Yeah, I use a screwdriver . I learned it from a few buddies of mine and it just saves time. You wedge it between the pad and the old rotor while the caliper is still mounted on the car. This way, when you take the caliper bolts off, the piston's already compressed



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 13, 2008 08:21am
OldJersey

Reg'd: Jan 09, 2007

Vehicle Designer

wait so u stick the scredriver in before unbolting the calliper and then theres no need for it after you change the pads and put the calliper back on?



[#] Jun 13, 2008 08:29am
krdshrk

Reg'd: Sep 29, 2007

Godlike Advisor

OldJersey wrote:
8 ) Grab you C-clamp and slowly turn the Brake piston back in. (1 turn every 10-15 secs. You want the piston to sit back flush. Afterwards you can now remove the C-clamp


^thats the only thing im worried about


Actually that's not really needed - you can turn it in at a decent rate. Just uncap the brake fluid resovoir (Master cylinder) and make sure that it's not too full so you don't push fluid out.



Scikotics NJ is sponsored by Lawrence Scion

2006 GReddy Turbocharged Automatic tC
220+ WHP - 14.044 @ 97.02 MPH
[#] Jun 13, 2008 09:22am
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

OldJersey wrote:
wait so u stick the scredriver in before unbolting the calliper and then theres no need for it after you change the pads and put the calliper back on?



Yeah, the piston is already compressed so no need to compress it again.



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 13, 2008 05:39pm
pooorboi

Reg'd: Jul 30, 2005

Detailer

you may want to have a 17 mm cresent wrench ready. the slidign bolt always turns on me when i am putting my calipers back on... no one mentioned that tho... is there something wrong with my car?


[#] Jun 25, 2008 03:39pm
OldJersey

Reg'd: Jan 09, 2007

Vehicle Designer

i did it the other day and i am so glad i didn't spend 250 at the dealer for it, rather 49bucks for the pads... only thing is i chipped my caliper paint so be careful, i can just touch it up though



[#] Jun 25, 2008 05:08pm
Web

Reg'd: Apr 17, 2006

THE SHADOW

pooorboi wrote:
you may want to have a 17 mm cresent wrench ready. the slidign bolt always turns on me when i am putting my calipers back on... no one mentioned that tho... is there something wrong with my car?


If it's that driver's side, I think your caliper is sticking on the slides. That's what is wearing your pads so fast on that one side.



Ignorance is bliss....305 fo life!...haha...Poser

[#] Jun 25, 2008 09:26pm
rohbocop

Reg'd: Sep 09, 2008

Tire Changer

how many turns of the c clamp do u need till its flush?

[#] Sep 25, 2008 02:51am
SquallLHeart

Reg'd: Sep 09, 2004

The Techie

as many as it takes...


LED questions? AIM: 'SquallLHeart TN'

LED Swaps and parts available! PM me for details, questions and/or quotes.

There's Strong, and then there's RETARD Strong.
Decelerate your life.
The Few, the Proud... (they never really tell you what they're really "proud" of, eh?)
Below All (USAF - Uncle Sam's Academic Failures)
[#] Sep 25, 2008 03:15am

TOP: Home > User Content > DIY / Install Guides > DIY: Front Brake Pads



Quick Nav:
©2008 Club Scion tC - Community for Scion tC enthusiasts.